Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Guimaro '09 - Indigenous Grapes, Inimitable Terroir Spanish Style

On the whole, most Spanish wines deliver the goods for everyday drinking when it comes to unabashed fruitiness. But there aren't that many in the low cost category that deliver the kind of complexity that I search for. In 2009, Eric Asimov of the New York Times posted a feature on Rebeira Sacra, a little known area of Galacia in northwestern Spain. It's a fascinating article that documents the historical abandonment of vineyards on terraced land that goes back 2000 years and the recent rebirth of those same vineyards. These wines, made from grapes grown on incredibly steep, terraced hillsides, can really deliver flavors that showcase the slate and granite laden soils that they come from. Made primarily from Mencia and other indigenous grapes such as brancellao, mouratón and garnacha, the idea that wine can deliver a "sense of place" is evident in these wines. Which brings me to a great example of that idea for a mere $12.99. You're met right away with soil driven, mineral aromas that give way to blackberry and baked cherry. In the mouth, the Guimaro puts forth wonderful medium-bodied earthy, red fruit flavors and a long sweet finish. It's really balanced nicely and keeps you coming back for more. This is imported by one of my favorites, David Bowler. Don't miss it. Cheers.

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